Above Lashes vs Under Lashes: Placement Guide

You've bought the perfect pair of false lashes. You carefully hold them up to your eye, ready to press them… and then you freeze. Do these go above your natural lashes or underneath? It's the most common question lash wearers ask, and the answer actually changes how your lashes look and feel. Let's settle it right now with a no-nonsense breakdown.

ABOVE-LASH PLACEMENT: PROS AND CONS

The classic way to apply false lashes is on the top of your natural lash line, just above where your own lashes grow. It's what most tutorials show, and it's often the first method people learn.

The good: Above placement gives the most dramatic lift. It can widen the eye and create that cat-eye shape. It's also forgiving for someone who's just starting out because you can see the band as you apply it.

The bad: If your natural lashes point straight down or if you have hooded eyes, above placement can create a “double lash” effect — that awkward shelf where the false lash sits ahead of your real one. It can also feel noticeable on the first wear.

UNDER-LASH PLACEMENT: PROS AND CONS

Under placement means pressing the false lash underneath your natural lashes, against the waterline. This is the secret technique that Korean beauty blogs have popularized.

The good: Under-lash placement makes your real lashes look naturally full. There's no gap between the strip and your lash line, so it's truly undetectable. It also opens small or round eyes without changing the natural shape. And for those who find top lash bands irritating, underneath is much more comfortable.

The bad: It takes practice. You can't watch the band go on, and if you have sensitive, watery eyes, getting that close to your waterline might trigger watering. Use with caution if you're in a hurry.

THE HEAD-TO-HEAD COMPARISON

Feature	Above Lashes	Under Lashes
Difficulty	Beginner-friendly	Intermediate
Look	Gloss, dramatic, lifted	Natural, seamless, blended
Comfort	Can feel scratchy on hooded eyes	Smooth, barely noticeable
Best eye shape	Almond, elongated eyes	Round, hooded, monolid eyes
Waterline impact	None	Lifts and opens the waterline

HOW TO DECIDE WHAT'S RIGHT FOR YOUR EYES

Stand in front of your mirror. Look straight ahead. If you can see a gap between your natural lash line and your lash growth, under placement is your best friend. If you have long, curved natural lashes, above placement will give you a safe and stunning result. The secret is trying both once, with a cheap pair, on a night you're not going anywhere — you'll know in five minutes which one feels like your way.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A PLACEMENT-FRIENDLY LASH

Whichever method you choose, the band must be thin enough to disappear. A thick band forces your natural lashes away and ruins the effect. Also look for a curved band that hugs the lash line — that will make under placement easier. Finally, check the width. A lash that's too wide will poke your inner corner whether it's above or below.

YOUR PLACEMENT, PERFECTED

I've worn lashes both ways, and the right pair makes under-lash placement feel surprisingly natural. That's why I keep going back to PHANSTA LASHES. Their ultra-thin, flexible bands conform to your lash line so effortlessly that they feel like a natural extension of your eye, whether you go above or below. The effect is exactly the kind of polished, natural enhancement you're after — with none of the “I've got falsies on” tell.

FAQ

Are under lashes better for older eyes? Yes, under placement tends to be more comfortable and natural-looking for mature or hooded eyes because it doesn't create a shelf effect.

Can you put false lashes under your top lashes? Yes, this is called under-lash placement. It takes a few tries to master, but once you do, the result is completely invisible.

Do under lashes hurt? They shouldn't. If you feel pressure or tugging, your lash band is probably too thick or your adhesive is too old. Check the fit carefully before pressing all the way down.

📚 Browse our complete library of lash guides →