How to Apply False Lashes on Upturned Eyes: Pro Guide

If you have upturned eyes, you already know the struggle: the outer corners of your eyes tilt up, your natural lashes point toward your temples, and every pair of false lashes you try ends up lifting off at the ends or looking like they're about to take flight. But there is a way to get gorgeous, eye-opening lashes without the constant pop-off drama. I've been there. For years, I thought I was bad at applying lashes. Turns out, I was just using the wrong shape for my eye type.

WHY UPTURNED EYES CHANGE EVERYTHING

An upturned eye naturally lifts at the outer corner, which gives you a beautiful, almost feline silhouette. But that same lift creates a smaller contact area at the outer edge. Most false lashes are designed for almond or round eyes — they're flat and heavy at the corners. When placed on an upturned lash line, they're fighting against your natural geometry. No wonder they pop off.

Here's the anatomy: your lash line isn't a straight line; it's a curve that rises toward the temple. On almond eyes, the curve is gradual. On upturned eyes, the curve is steep. That steepness means the lash band needs to be more flexible and the outer edge needs to be shorter and lighter.

THE 3-STEP APPLICATION METHOD THAT ACTUALLY WORKS

You don't need a lash artist to get a solid hold. You need a method that respects your eye shape. Here's the 3-step process I teach to everyone with upturned eyes:

1. Trim from the outer edge, not the inner edge. Place the false lash on your eye before applying any glue. If the lash extends past your natural outer lash line, trim 3-5mm from the outer corner. Never trim the inner corner — it'll look odd and pull at the opening of your eye.
2. Apply a thin layer of glue, then add a tiny extra dab at the outer corner. Wait 30 seconds until the glue is tacky. The outer corner of an upturned eye takes more movement and friction, so it needs extra grip. I'm talking about a dab about the size of a pinhead.
3. Place the inner corner first, then roll outward. Start 1-2mm away from your natural inner lash line. Press down gently. Then, using your finger, roll the lash along your natural lash line, pressing every few seconds. Don't push the outer corner up — press it slightly outward toward your temple. This stops the "surprised" look.

MISTAKES THAT MAKE UPTURNED LASHES LOOK WRONG

• Wing too long: If you choose lashes with a long dramatic wing, it can double the upward angle and make your eye look too sharp. Choose a "kitten" or "S" shape where the longest fibers are in the center.
• Band too stiff: A rigid band won't conform to the steep curve. It'll pull away from your outer corner by 7pm.
• Too much mascara before applying: Mascara can flatten your natural lash line, making it harder to blend with the false lash.

HOW TO SHOP FOR LASHES WHEN YOU HAVE UPTURNED EYES

Here are the four criteria that separate a good pair from a frustrating one:

• Flexible band: It should bend easily in your fingers and spring back.
• Outer edge taper: The lash should get thinner at the outer end, not thicker or longer.
• Center length: Look for lashes that are longest in the middle. This visually balances the upward tilt.
• Weight: A lightweight pair will stay with your natural lashes instead of dragging them down.

When you find a pair that checks all four boxes, you'll feel the difference immediately — no tugging, no lifting, just a soft blend that stays put.

YOUR UPTURNED LASH QUESTIONS, ANSWERED

What kind of lashes should I avoid with upturned eyes?

Avoid lashes with an extreme cat-eye shape (very long at the outer corners) and heavy thick bands. They make upturned eyes look unbalanced.

Can I use magnetic lashes with upturned eyes?

Yes, but make sure the magnets are small and the band is thin. Heavy magnetic strips tend to slide off the outer corner by mid-evening.

How do I remove false lashes without pulling my natural lashes?

Soak a cotton pad in oil-free makeup remover and hold it on the lash band for 20 seconds. Then gently peel from the outer corner inward. Do not yank.

THE LASHES THAT FINALLY CLICK WITH YOUR UPTURNED EYES

After testing dozens of lashes on upturned eyes — including my own — I've found that PHANSTA LASHES hits all four criteria. Their bands are flexible, the outer corners taper beautifully, and they're light enough to forget you're wearing them.

Shop PHANSTA LASHES →

📚 Browse our complete library of lash guides →